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Table of Contents
1) Editor's Comments:One nice thing about spring, summer and fall, it is not difficult for us to come up with topics. During the late fall and winter we tend to have to find more filler pieces for each issue. If there are any topics you'd like to see, don't hesitate to drop us a note. We can't guarantee we'll be able to cover it right away, or that we might have info on the topic right now, but it might be an area we can do some research on and pass info on to all our readers. We'd also like to thank those who volunteered to receive an HTML version to see if we can clear up problems we've had in the past. As we type, we are awful close to running the test, and even just going for it and sending this issue with our new software. As always, if you do have questions, suggestions or ideas, do not hesitate to drop us a note. Tom Krueger Rex Gregor 2) Caring for Annuals:
Of course you need to weed occasionally. One thing to remember when weeding is that annuals do have shallow root systems. It is best to do the weeding by hand. If you use a hoe or other implement to aid the task, you might be damaging the roots. Also, do the hand weeding when the soil is damp; you'll find the weeds pull up much easier. Don't forget water, especially during dry periods. Even though many annuals tend to do well in dry conditions, even those plants need a helping shot of water because of the shallow roots. Let the ground around the plants be your guide - if the ground is dry, it's time to grab the garden hose. For watering you should certainly consider a "soaker" hose where the water is gently delivered directly to the soil and you don't end up with a lot of evaporation taking place before the water even hits the ground. But most of us don't use a soaker - for us, it is the hand sprayer. Be sure to use the fine-spray setting. You'll get better water dispersal; you'll have less soil disturbance; and you'll have less runoff and more water going into the soil around your plants. Another important thing is to not do a quick daily watering. You're better off doing a complete watering less frequently. Quick watering will only dampen the soil surface. Even though annuals have shallow roots, quick watering would be encouraging the plants to root even shallower and result in the need to do even more frequent waterings. Now, here is something we know you've likely heard before, but it is always nice to be reminded. It is best to water in the morning so the plant's leaves have a chance to dry during the day. Otherwise, you're opening the plants to fungus disease. Finally, if you live in a dry area, don't have the time to water as often, or simply want to help save water, you might consider using a mulch. This will help the soil retain water - you won't have the sun baking the soil, drawing the moisture out through evaporation. Remember these tips and your plants will be happier, and more importantly, you'll be much happier having beautiful blooms to enjoy. *** 15% savings until June 12, 2003 *** We know of no other plant that can take as much abuse
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Seedco Cactus & Succulent Seeds 3) Humor for Today:The pastor was talking to a group of young children about being good and going to heaven. At the end of his talk, he asked, "Where do you want to go?" "Heaven!" they all piped up. "And what do you have to do to get there?" "Be dead!" 4) Pear Trees:
If you don't have room for two pear trees, consider selecting a tree with several varieties grafted onto a single rootstock. Your tree will then be self-pollinating and bear different kinds of pears at different times. 5) Invasive HerbsAnyone with a herb garden likely knows there are some herbs that can be invasive. By that we mean that the plants can spread and start to take over. Examples are mint, tansy or woodruff. One way to "contain" their spreading is to plant them in sunken containers. You can use old buckets, large pots or even heavy duty plastic bags. Of course, you need to be sure they have drainaige holes. When you place the bucket in the hole, there is no need to leave the rim above ground level, you can place soil over the rim. Then next spring, you'll want to replant vigorous pieces of the plant into fresh soil mix. Doing this you won't have an invasive herb taking over. Click Image for Our Orchid
Gallery 6) Quote for Today:"In the beginning the world was without form, and void.
And God said 'Let there be light'. And God separated the light from
the dark.
And did two loads of laundry." 7) Reader Mailbag: Ash Tree"Reluctantly, my husband and I had to have a large, beautiful ash tree cut down from our front yard, due to the fact that it was dying an untimely death. The stump has been ground out to a reasonable depth. We want to plant a new tree in that area -- is it a good idea, or a bad one, to plant the new one directly in the pit of the old stump? We didn't know if the old root system would assist or hinder the new tree (which is a maple and not an ash, btw.) --- Anthrocnose diseases occur in many landscape treesb but they tend to be most severe in ash trees. They are typically foliar diseases that cause death of the stem part of the tree and may also cause premature leaf drop. You can often spot this problem by examining the leaves - they will develope circular lesions. The infected leaflets frequently drop from the tree creating a carpet of leaves beneath the tree. If treated "early on" when the disease is first noted, the tree can often be saved. "Ash Yellows" is a disease that has only recently been diagnosed. It has been reported that the Green Ash has been infected more frequently in the north-central and north-easthern United States. This disease is hard to confirm because the particular virus particles cannot be cultured in the laboratory. It is most likely the disease is spread by insects. Trees with "ash yellows" will rarely recover from the disease. To the best of our knowledge it has not been established if "ash yellows" remains in the soil for a period of time. And it might be possible that the fungus can remain in the soil without a host plant. Our suggestion depends on how important it is to have a shade tree in that exact location. If you are willing to gamble on replacing the tree, then by all means, go ahead and plant another tree. However, we'd suggest you select a tree of a different family - at least that way, the odds of the new tree surviving will be more in your favor. The only problem that might occur is if the old roots were diseased and those old roots might cause future problems. Yet, as we said, the odds would still be in your favor if you chose a different variety of tree other than an ash. 8) Moving Houseplants Outdoors:
But it is important to not make this move too early. Many houseplants can be damaged at temperatures below 40 to 45 degrees. You also don't want to move them immediately into full sun. Find a shady place for a couple days, then move them into filtered sunlight. If the plant is one that can tolerate full sun, don't make that move for 10 days to two weeks of filtered sun. Once in full sun, keep you eye on the leaves. If they start to fade, bleach, or burn, move the plant back to filtered sun. Give it another week of filtered light, and then move it back to full sun. 9) Subscribe/UnsubscribeThis newsletter, the Green Thumb Times, is sent out only to those who have requested a FREE subscription by signing up at http://rexseedco.com or specifically asked to be added, or are a valued customer of Rex's Seedco. PRIVACY: Your email address is held in the strictest of privacy. It is never traded or sold to anyone else. To subscribe to The Green Thumb Times To unsubscribe Tom Krueger, Editor and Publisher Rex Gregor, Contributing Editor Please feel free to forward The Green Thumb Times to a friend. Rexs Seedco has searched the world for quality
growers of garden seeds. Many of these farmers bring together ancient
wisdom and modern science so people everywhere may have good health
and enjoyment in life. We are dedicated to providing the best wherever
they are found.
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